Sinophiles and cinephiles alike will be taken with the title at topical hand. We aim to please. By no means fashionably tame,Temper Magazine presents our list of ten brands we think embody the explicit depiction of an insatiable lust for that ultimate seductive mix between the fashionable and wearable. Time to play: Tag that brand!
First, a little faddy party “did you know” fact before we start playing tag, though. The Chinese word for “fashion” (时尚|
China Fashion has come a long way, baby. From a coerced creative and cultural wasteland to storming the vested houses of design, the question becomes… What are the top ten tip-offs?
1. Love Louder
A lust for the eye that has to travel, Love Louder is a Shanghai-based brand celebrating both excessive and economic designs for all genders. Boasting sweaters and dresses which range across a borderline-outer-space colorfully graphic spectrum, Love Louder is the go-to tag for those fashionably quirky. And pretty perky.
Nevertheless, the brand holds a trump card reeling in even the slickest and thickest of minimal-loving thieves, adding a touch of stylish shtick for those less exuberant when it comes to their daily getups in the shape and size of that ultimate classic: The Black Leather Jacket. Bearing an all-black ensemble following. Love at first sight.
Anna Yang is the designer behind Annakiki, an independent brand the DNA of which is contemporary and non-traditional. In her 2018 interview with Global Blue, Yang told the publication, “I like Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto, Maison Margiela and John Galliano. Fashion is a rapidly changing and an unpredictable industry; trends are constantly changing. Yet these designers have always maintained their distinctive personalities, adhered to the spirit of self and maintained a strong creative and innovative edge. I think this is very rare and valuable.”
Yang aims to transfer a code of aesthetic fatigue in a new design language by using mixed materials, fabric recombination and asymmetric design so that all unique garments can be presented in two different forms. Hoping for her collections to be collected, Yang holds the belief that every garment deserves to be respected and inherited. Sustainability between tradition and rebellion.
WEancheAM is a Milan-based, Shanghai Fashion Week-beloved brand. “WE” stands for group consciousness; “AM” stands for the individual subjective. The brand’s main design highlights include printing and structural silhouettes, culminating in a unique personality through ready-to-wear clothes.
The founding designers’ previous experience at Italian fashion house CoSTUME NATIONAL extends to their paying great attention to various and specific types of tailoring. In the pursuit of artistry in clothing, much consideration goes out to to the practical use by applying draping techniques. The garment must fit the body seamlessly. A matter of global designer subjective.
4. Victor X Wang| V!!!!!
Designer Victor X Wang is currently studying at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp (BE) and set to complete his undergraduate degree this year. The V!!!!! brand was born in the summer of 2018, where “V” represents the designer’s English name “Victor”and the additional “!!!!!” convey strength. Those who wear V!!!!!, like the brand name itself, share a fearless self-confidence and the courage to constantly pursue themselves.
The lovers are three-dimensional, colored, positive and flamboyant. At the same time, V!!!!!’s philosophy is diverse and inclusive, but also loves to explore the beauty found in conflict and opposition. The budding designer’s unique stream of consciousness is symbolized and brought to 3D life in strong cuts and extravagant shapes. Lavish and lush, we find it.
5. Yang Li
Yang Li ( 李阳 in Chinese) is a fashion designer born in Beijing, based in London. He currently serves as the creative director of his eponymous label Yang Li. Li’s first collection “Zero Hour”, released in 2010, was shown through a short film in collaboration with filmmaker and photographer Scott Trindle. The film features articles of clothing being cut and repaired to varying degrees. Yang saw this as an act of “subtle rebellion”.
Li is known for working with underground and cult musicians. For his AW17/18 collection, the designer partnered up with American singer-songwriter Michael Gira for a live performance to accompany his runway show at Palais de Tokyo in Paris. Other musical collaborations have thus far included Blixa Bargeld of Einstürzende Neubauten, Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds, Ramleh, KK Null and Pharmakon. The man is making some confrontationally fashionable noise.
6. Shasha Wong| Swaying
The concept of Shasha Wong’s (黄莎莎 in Chinese) graduated from the Royal College of Art Graduate Show in 2017 and in 2018 created her own knit- and womenswear brand Swaying. The label stems from Wong’s obsession with the touch of fascination and detail. Through visual language, the combination of different materials and the interaction of knitted structures, it can tangibly express the intangible feelings and emotions from all inspirational angles.
The garments reproduce the gentle and tenacious independent female image that the brand adheres to. The brand name Swaying refers to both the mechanical and bodily movements when knitting, as well as the lazy, cozy and enjoyable feeling the designer experiences when knitting. From stretched or shrunken knitwear issues of the past to svelte felt minimalism: Dea Ex Machina.
Designer Wang Changrong (王长荣 in Chinese) graduated from the Fashion Design Department of the Academy of Fine Arts at Tsinghua University and holds 11 years of experience in the fields of apparel design and brand operation. The W.RONG brand was founded in Shenzhen back in 2016.
The label represents the fascinating and challenging nature of China’s independent post-80 and -90 women. With its perfect combination of fashion and practical wear, infused with sporty elements to meet the multiple dressing needs of women across all walks of life, a set of shapes can meet a variety of roles throughout the day. At the same time, the brand is devoted to the exploration of outlines and details, combining bold cutting with avant-garde deconstruction to embody the softness and resilience of modern independent women. Flex fashion.
For more intel on the brand, go to Ontimeshowshanghai.
8. Yeung Chin
Hong Kong designer Yeung Chin was the Chief Designer for G2000 before starting up his own business. He has designed costumes for the City Contemporary Dance Company and has exhibited at the Cheer’s Exhibition held at OXO Tower in London, Asia Society Hong Kong and the Hong Kong Heritage Museum. He is now a guest lecturer at the Hong Kong Design Institute and has in the process opened his own concept store at the Sheung Wan PMQ creative galleries.
His eponymous label YEUNG CHIN is all about challenging the existing aesthetics. The designer uses art to find new ways — such as new dance moves — to create fashion. Films and sculptures too provide inspiration for his designs. Dances with fashion.
9. I Love Pretty
I LOVE PRETTY is an independent designer brand created by designer Yang Juan (杨娟 in Chinese), characterized by the art of “noble sexy”. Yang believes that no matter the age of a woman, she must remain elegant and confident. And regardless of any unfortunate happenings we may encounter in life, these must never affect our enthusiasm for life in se or the pursuit of our dreams.
The designer uses novel fabrics with oriental traditional cutting technique to make her dresses “appear like a dream”. The brand, with its unique and elegant character, insists on releasing female elegance and showing off the figure of femininity. Designing should, after all, be exquisite down to the smallest details. Fashion hearts fantasy.
10. Particle Fever
Particle Fever is a high-end designer sports brand launched by Shanghai Dimensions Technology Co., Ltd. under the Shanghai Ruler Technology Co., Ltd. The brand designs each sportswear piece with an unconventional experimental attitude, thoroughly thinking about how one sportswear item can reflect a process and aesthetic perspective.
There is at the moment a higher demand in China for creativity, avoiding the popular trend of blind obedience, rejecting meaningless labels and freely practicing all the pioneering plans related to sportswear from the multiple perspectives of art, technology and culture. Starting with every inch of fabric, Particle Fever strives to eliminate all intermediate costs, stretch to the limits and provide more uniqueness.
In life, who does not physically cherish the springtime of youth through art and design? A young brand to its wearer should be like a thread to a needle.
When it comes to your wardrobe, it should be about love and lust, top to bottom. And about throwing caution to the wind.
What say you, Sino- and cinephiles?
FEATURED IMAGE: COURTESY OF YEUNG CHIN OFFICIAL, 2019. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
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After tackling Beijing for some six years where she worked for China International Publishing Group, she spent a moment in time moseying down steep alleyways and writing about their fashionable and underground features in Hong Kong.
Van Paridon most recently managed to claw her way through a Europe-based academic endeavor called "Journalism". 'Tis in such fashion that she has now turned her lust for China Fashion/ Lifestyle and Underground into a full time occupation.
Van Paridon hunts down the latest in Chinese menswear, women’s clothing, designer newbies, established names, changes in the nation’s street scenery, close-ups of particular trends presently at play or of historical socio-cultural value in Chinaplus a selection of budding photographers.
Paired with a deep devotion to China’s urban underground scene, van Paridon holds a particular interest in the topics of androgyny, the exploration of individuality and the power that is the Key Opinion Leader (the local term for “influencers”) in contemporary China.
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