Paris haute couture closed on July 6 featuring two of China’s most inimitable designers, Guo Pei and Laurence Xu, leading the increasingly foreign Paris fashion invasion. Susan Owens reports for Jing Daily.
“In the past, my collections were spiritual. This time they are literal, inspired by landscape,” Designer Laurence Xu.
Temper Magazine’s Trending segment casts a net upon all that is throwing tantrums within the world of China Fashion across a variety of global sources. This very necessary segment makes for a collection of largely non-Temper Magazine-original content dipping its toe into the deep indigo-dyed pool that is the ocean of Middle Kingdom fashionable astonishment.
This time around, we look back on the mucho-pizzazzo Chinese catwalk presence during Paris Couture Week July 2017. Fashionistas and hangers-on put to the side, Susan Owens — founder and editor of Paris Chérie, a Paris-based fashion website dedicated to bringing French style news to Chinese readers — sheds a Jing Daily light on two standouts” Guo Pei (think Riri The Bold at the Met Gala 2014) and Laurence Xu. Owens writes.
Paris haute couture closed Thursday with China’s two inimitable designers — Guo Pei and Laurence Xu — leading the increasingly “foreign invasion.”
The Chambre Syndicale de la Couture, the industry’s governing body, welcomed five new names who debuted on day one—two from the US, and the rest from Europe. And couture week was extended by an extra day this year. Against this reinvigorated backdrop for an event that was once a gilded cage reserved exclusively for French houses with an atelier in Paris, Pei and Xu have long since taken their place.
Xu first showed in Paris in July 2013 and Pei made her official debut at the Spring/Summer 2016 Couture collections. Their shows are consistently among the most anticipated in Paris since they bring an unequivocal, sensual mix of East-meets-West to the catwalk.
Both designers flaunt Chinese couture skills with over-the-top opulence but in a marked change this season, their silhouettes shifted gears to embrace more Western silhouettes that included goddess gowns, one-shouldered sheaths, pant suits and mermaid dresses.
These dresses inform the red carpet — Xu has dressed actress Fan Bingbing for the Cannes film festival and Pei was propelled to international fashion fame when she dressed American pop culture icon Rihanna, for the 2015 Met Gala in New York.
With his third couture show, Xu was a guest of China’s ‘New Couture Committee,’ a group chaired by Christine Zhao which aims to take China’s best designers beyond Asian shores towards international recognition.
In a side event, hosted by Zhao, four Chinese designers showed a total of 20 pieces in Paris’s most exclusive boutique, Les Suites. It was there that Taiwanese designer Kilin Chen saw one of his gowns sell to a Middle Eastern princess for 20,000 euros within an hour of arriving in the boutique.
As the first designer based in China to be awarded honorary couture status by the Chambre, Pei has the more distinguished status of the two Chinese stars at couture week. This was her fourth collection.
For the full Owens read, and more snippets of her luxury wisdom, go to Jing Daily!
This trending topic is originally written by Susan Owens for Jing Daily 2017 All rights reserved
Featured Image: Courtesy of Laurence Xu Weibo and Jing Daily.
About Susan Owens: As dictated by HuffPost, Owens is a Paris-based fashion and culture commentator. She is the founder/publisher of the first Chinese-language website from Paris: Paris Cherie. She writes on ‘the business of luxury’ for The Australian Financial Review, Condé Nast (China) and contributes to Architectural Digest and The Financial Times.
Temper Magazine does not own any of the above English content. All featured English content belongs to Susan Owens for Jing Daily 2017. All rights reserved.
Chinese translation: Li “Lily” Dan of Kitayama Studio for Temper Magazine.
After tackling Beijing for some six years where she worked for China International Publishing Group, she spent a moment in time moseying down steep alleyways and writing about their fashionable and underground features in Hong Kong.
Van Paridon most recently managed to claw her way through a Europe-based academic endeavor called "Journalism". 'Tis in such fashion that she has now turned her lust for China Fashion/ Lifestyle and Underground into a full time occupation.
Van Paridon hunts down the latest in Chinese menswear, women’s clothing, designer newbies, established names, changes in the nation’s street scenery, close-ups of particular trends presently at play or of historical socio-cultural value in Chinaplus a selection of budding photographers.
Paired with a deep devotion to China’s urban underground scene, van Paridon holds a particular interest in the topics of androgyny, the exploration of individuality and the power that is the Key Opinion Leader (the local term for “influencers”) in contemporary China.
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