Fake Natoo And The Hopes For Fashionable Health. 寄望于健康时尚.

Designed by Beijing native Zhang Na, the Fake Natoo label in 2008 launched itself into out-of-this-world fashionably healthy spheres, quickly landing on China’s most-wanted designer list. Jessica Laiter puts on her cloche hat and chases down this dragon for us.

由北京本土设计师张娜创立,2008年在健康时尚界首次登台之后,张娜很快便成为了中国炙手可热的设计师之一。Jessica Laiter跟踪采访了这位新锐设计师。

“Our heritage is our everything. Old clothes hold the traces of people’s lives, of humanity,” Zhang Na.张娜说: “传承就是一切。旧衣服承载着生活和人性的印记.”

Fake Natoo gives us reason to believe that the hopes for a healthier China have finally been reckoned for. The Post-80s and -90s make every effort to alter the global gaze on China, helping to shift focus from a country blamed for its environmentally-disastrous actions, to its more progressive individuals whose fashions serve as a looking glass into China’s softer side. Beijing-born and -bred Zhang Na marches at the forefront of this movement. A run-through:

Fake Natoo让我们有理由相信,健康中国的概念正不断引起人们的关注。中国的环境污染问题在国际上曾一度受到指责,80后和90后的中国年轻人通过自己的时尚行动正试图改变世界对中国的看法,通过他们的视角向世界展示着发生在中国内部的变化。作为健康时尚行动的领军人之一的张娜:

  1. Zhang studied Fashion Design at the Xi’an Academy of Fine Arts in the department of Fashion Design Education and later attended Mod’art International Paris;
  2. Her label was launched in 2008 under the original brand name “Na(too)”, which later on transformed into Fake Natoo;
  3. Say what? “Fake”: Well, there already was a brand labeled “Natoo” and that was the harsh reality of it. Hence Zhang simply took it to the next level of exaggeration/pun. “Na”? Her first name. “Too”? Meaning “possibility”;
  4. Zhang’s true passion is found in her striving to create a more permanent bond between people, clothing, and the environment.
  1. 毕业于西安美术学院时装设计专业,毕业后前往巴黎国际时装艺术学院求学。
  2. 在2008年发布了自己的品牌,品牌原来的名字叫Na(too),后改为Fake Natoo。
  3. “仿造(Fake)”:不幸的是在时尚界已经有一个品牌以“Natoo”命名,于是张娜为自己的品牌取了一个语意双关的名字:“Na”是她的名字,“Too”预示着品牌的潜力。
  4. 张娜真正热爱并一直在努力做的事是,在人、衣服、和环境之间建立一条永久的纽带。

Although still quite small in China, the niche of sustainability has turned into a trend. One that is fashion forward and rooted in rich heritage. 虽然在中国还是小范围的,可持续时尚已经形成一股走势:时尚的发展根植于传承。

Fake Natoo 2017 China Fashion Bloggers

Fake Natoo S/S17. Copyright@China Fashion Bloggers.Fake Natoo 2017春夏,版权所有@China Fashion Bloggers

Mongolian Sustainability

蒙古文化中的可持续性

As a descendent of Manchu nobility, Zhang harbors a strong sense of responsibility towards creating fashions that are based on her Chinese background. Going back in time a mere three years, we find a perfectly befitting example of this innate sense of heritage in Fake Natoo’s A/W 2014 opening.  Hosted inside the Beijing 798 Art District, Zhang presented her collection featuring recurring themes from nomadic culture and lifestyle, playing on the notes of sincerity and authenticity of a life strongly tied to Mother Earth. Coming down the catwalk to the chants of Mongolian folk bands and grassland songs by a Xinjiang Regional band, Zhang had woven together a collective of chosen hues and featured fabrics — cashmere, alpaca, mohair and organic wool imported from Italy — that richly reflected the natural tones of Earth.

身为满清贵族的后裔,张娜对根植于中国文化背景的时尚创作有着强烈的责任感。回顾三年前,在Fake Natoo2014年的秋冬发布会上,我们看到了她对传统文化的完美传承。在北京798艺术空间,张娜发表了以游牧文化和生活方式为主题的服饰系列,这个系列体现了与地球母亲之间纯正真挚的紧密联系。以新疆蒙古族民间乐队的呼歌为背景音乐,采用大地色系和自然原料,诸如羊绒、羊驼呢、马海毛以及意大利绿色羊毛面料, 这个系列充分反映了自然的本色。

fake_natoo_fw14_chinafashionbloggers_01-1125x1380
Fake Natoo A/W14. Copyright@China Fashion Bloggers.Fake Natoo 2014秋冬,版权所有@China Fashion Bloggers

With a return to Mother Earth, comes the awareness of how we, as a global collective, have been treating Her. Chinese designers and consumers too are increasingly branching out from runway and fast fashion to the globe-sweeping phenomenon that is sustainable and organic fashion. Sustainability is rapidly turning into one of the better talked-about-topics across China’s industrious landscape. Albeit still quite small, this niche industry has somewhat turned into a trending topic — from online platforms such as Sina Weibo to the offline reality of, say, restored straight razors. It is a trend that is both fashion forward as well as rooted in rich heritage. And what better way to shed light on China’s growing environmentalist community than through fashion.

谈到对地球的回馈,全人类都应该反省我们曾是如何对待我们的地球母亲的。从T型台到快时尚,中国设计师和消费者们也在积极回应席卷全球的可持续有机时尚风潮。纵观中国时尚产业界,可持续发展问题已成为界内人士经常谈论的话题。尽管规模尚小,可持续发展产业越来越受到人们的关注——从线上平台像新浪微博到线下实践,例如折叠式剃刀修复改造等。可持续时尚潮流是根植于传承的前沿时尚。而中国的时尚潮流的转变也正是日益兴起地环保意识的最佳体现。

Those forming the backbone of the emerging eco-friendly brands clearly showcase China’s capability to become one of this niche’s strongest competitors.那些成为主干力量的新兴环保品牌清晰地显示出中国有能力成为这个产业中的强有力的竞争对手。

Fake Natoo 2 2017 China Fashion Bloggers
Fake Natoo S/S17. Copyright@China Fashion Bloggers.Fake Natoo 2017春夏,版权所有@China Fashion Bloggers

Risky… up-cycling?

大胆的升级再造?

Zhang is also taking fashion risks outside of her own label. One independent project that first commanded the audience’s attention at a 2010 art exhibition in Australia, “Reclothing Bank” was and is Zhang’s response to China’s rapid development. “Reclothing” stands for the re-making and re-designing of secondhand clothes, whilst “Bank” signifies a platform for the circulation and exchange of old materials. I myself label this a “risk” since the Chinese consumer market has of now not yet attributed significant value to sustainable fashion; it remains a novice concept. Nevertheless, those who stand behind the emerging eco-friendly brands clearly showcase China’s capability to become one of this niche’s strongest competitors. Hope floats for fashion and thank God for floaty suits. Watch as Timothy Parent of China Fashion Bloggers finds out more at the Reclothing Bank Fashion Show 2017:

张娜在经营她的品牌之外也在大胆地做着一些其他的时尚尝试。其中一个叫做“再造衣银行(Reclothing Bank)”的独立项目,就是张娜对于中国发展过快的回应,这个项目在2010年的澳大利亚艺术展上首次展出。“再造衣(Reclothing)”是指利用二手衣物重新设计和制作,“银行(Bank)”是交换和循环利用旧衣物的平台。我之所以称这个项目为“大胆的尝试”,是因为可持续时尚在中国还没有引起消费者的足够重视,可持续时尚还是一个很新的概念。然而那些成为主干力量的新兴环保品牌已清晰地显示出中国有能力成为这个产业中的强有力的竞争对手。时尚放飞希望。China Fashion Bloggers的Timothy Parent带我们走进再造衣银行2017发布会现场:

This form of upcycling may be considered exotic in China, but it has definite traction within the global fashion market. Zhang works with discarded clothing and textile donations to create treasures out of unwanted materials. As the old saying goes: One woman’s trash is another woman’s treasure. Zhang takes unsellable pieces from thrift shops and creates a new line of ready-to-wear items, with her passion for exploring the connection between people, dress and the environment consistently shining through. Zhang befittingly sells her Reclothing Bank designs at Brandnü, an eth­ical trade net­work collaborating with China’s socio-con­scious design­ers and artists and at the same time arguably Beijing’s chiquest charity shop located in the Wudaoying Hutong. Taking a passion for people to the highest level, the shop donates 10 per cent of all profits to the migrant women who work with the shop and its featured brands.

升级再造虽然在中国仍是一个很新的概念,但在国际时尚界此概念已经兴起。张娜把捐赠来的旧衣物和废弃布料,旧货店里卖不掉的衣服重新设计利用,怀着探索人、服装、和环境之间联系的热情,创立了一个新的成衣系列。张娜在Brandnü里销售再造衣银行的成衣,Brandnü坐落于北京的五道营胡同,与关注社会公益事业的设计师和艺术家合作,是北京真正意义上的公益商店。Brandnü将零售额的10%捐赠给那些帮助Brandnü回收利用旧衣物的农民工妇女。

Fake Natoo 3 2017 China Fashion Bloggers
Fake Natoo S/S17. Copyright@China Fashion Bloggers.Fake Natoo 2017春夏,版权所有@China Fashion Bloggers

Recyclable heritage 

可循环利用的遗产

“We have a plethora of older articles in our lives, a lot of which we throw away; or that we keep hidden in the back of our closets. This is not what we should be doing in terms of environmental protection. I just feel that people sometimes look back at their old things and realize their sentimental value. You need to slow down and think about the past before thinking about the present or the future.” Zhang explains in her own words. Heritage is everything.

张娜用自己的话解释到:“在我们的生活中总会有很多旧物,我们丢掉了很多,还有很多遗忘在衣橱的深处。从环境保护的角度看,这样做其实产生了很多浪费。我觉得有时候当人们看到自己用过的东西的时候,才会意识到这件物品所具有的情感价值。你需要慢下脚步,先回想一下过去,在去构思现在或是将来。” 传承就是一切。

This Chinese Gen-X designer lives by the professional code that old clothes hold the traces of people’s lives, of humanity. In the hope that wearing redesigned old clothes can make people pause and contemplate their present and future, Zhang continuously powers through on her fashion travels, taking adversity in her stride with a healthy dose of humor. Low-key she may very well be, yet high hopes we hold for her brand and the philosophy it entails.

这位年轻设计师有着自己的职业理念,旧衣物承载着人们的生活和人性。张娜希望人们在穿着再造过的衣服的时候会停下来想想自己的现在和未来。张娜在她的时尚旅程中将继续前行,在遇到困难的时候给自己来一剂健康的幽默针剂。她人虽然低调,但我们对她的品牌和其品牌背后的哲学抱有极高的期望。

As far as that fashionable health is concerned… As they (well, B.C. Forbes) say: “In the race for success, speed is less important that stamina. So power on through and remain brand-new!

只要人们关注健康时尚就像他们(B.C. Forbes)所说的:在取得成功的征程上耐力比速度更重要.” 所以让我们充满电来保持全新的状态吧!

 

 

 

 

 

 

ORIGINALLY WRITTEN BY JESSICA LAITER FOR HER WEBSITE CHINESE GRAFFITI (READ ON TO FIND OUT MORE!).本文出自 JESSICA LAITER的个人网站CHINESE GRAFFITI(点击继续阅读)
ADDITIONAL EDITING BY ELSBETH VAN PARIDON.补充编辑:ELSBETH VAN PARIDON
FEATURED IMAGE: COPYRIGHT @Fake Natoo.图片:Fake Natoo.
FOLLOW LAITER ON INSTAGRAM: @ChineseGraffiti
A FEW ADDITIONAL WORDS ABOUT LAITER AND HER FASHION-PROMO WEBSITE CHINESE GRAFFITI:
CHINESE GRAFFITI WAS LAUNCHED IN ORDER TO PROVIDE THE WORLD WITH AN EXCITING AND DYNAMIC WAY TO LEARN ABOUT CHINESE HISTORY AND CULTURE VIA A FASHION PLATFORM, AND OF COURSE TO PROMOTE EMERGING CHINESE DESIGNERS.
LEARNING ABOUT CHINA WAS A PASSION OF JESSICA’S SINCE CHILDHOOD, AND HAS ONLY GROWN STRONGER WITH THE YEARS. ALWAYS KNOWING SHE WANTED TO PLAY A PART IN CROSS CULTURAL COMMUNICATION, SHE FIRST TACKLED THE “EASY” TASK OF LEARNING MANDARIN, GOING ON TO GRADUATE FROM THE UNIVERSITY OF PITTSBURGH WITH A DUAL DEGREE IN CHINESE STUDIES AND COMMUNICATIONS RHETORIC. IN THE PAST 10 YEARS, SHE ATTENDED INTENSIVE SUMMER LANGUAGE PROGRAMS,  STUDIED, WORKED AND TRAVELED ACROSS CHINA, AND IS CURRENTLY PURSUING A MASTERS DEGREE IN TRANSLATION AT NEW YORK UNIVERSITY.
JESSICA HAS WORKED IN THE FOOTWEAR, BRANDING, AND CONSULTING INDUSTRIES, HELPING TO BRIDGE COMMUNICATION, BUSINESS, AND CULTURAL GAPS FOR MAJOR CLIENTS FROM BOTH EAST AND WEST.
LIVING IN NEW YORK CITY MEANS HAVING THE WORLD AT YOUR FINGERTIPS.  UNIQUE LIFE EXPERIENCES HAVE GUIDED JESSICA INTO RARE OPPORTUNITIES WHERE SHE HAS MET FASHION, BUSINESS, AND CULTURAL LEADERS FROM CITIES ACROSS THE GLOBE, MANY OF WHICH SHARE A PASSION FOR MULTICULTURALISM AND UNBOUNDED SUPPORT FOR EMERGING TALENT. THE HOPE IS TO SHARE WITH YOU THIS PASSION AND TO PASS ON WHY CHINA IS NOT JUST A COUNTRY OF 1.4 BILLION PEOPLE, AND SHOULD BE RECOGNIZED FOR MORE THAN ITS ECONOMIC SUCCESS. IT IS A PLACE OF TRADITION, CULTURE, FASHION, ART AND DESIGN. AND ITS STORY DESERVES TO BE TOLD.