What Lies Beneath: Rose Fulbright’s Lush Lingerie And Lounge Lifestyle.隐藏在外表下的的闲适奢华.

A bookend style statement to our daily lives, lingerie sets the mood for how we wake up in the morning and go to sleep at night — a theory with which designer Rose Fulbright-Vickers wholeheartedly seems to agree. And so we dive beneath the surface with Jessica Laiter.

在日常生活中,我们所穿着的内衣影响着我们起床和入睡的心情,设计师Rose Fulbright-Vickers就十分赞同这种说法。就让我们跟随Jessica Laiter一起潜入这隐藏在外表下的Rose Fulbright内衣世界。

Although frowned upon if exploited in public, lingerie has helped to maintain feminism and fashion through the thick and thin of China’s historical happenings.虽然有些不好意思说出口,在中国历史长河中,内衣在维护女性权益和展现女性时尚魅力方面的作用是不可低估的。

It’s not what we see on the surface that counts, it’s what lies beneath that really matters — at least that’s what they say…. Far from the truth, however, it is not.

我们表面上看到的往往不是最重要的,重要的是隐藏在表面以下的东西——话虽是这么说,然而事实却远非如此。

Synonymous with quality and luxury, the Rose Fulbright brand has become a staple item in the British woman’s repertoire and is steadily turning into a go-to brand for the sophisticated Chinese woman. After graduating from both Parsons School of Design in Paris and The London College of Fashion, Fulbright — who hails from a long line of creatives, artists, anthropologists, and architects — decided to draft a suitable retail concept, with her designer details and concept development culminating  her eponymous Rose Fulbright lingerie label.

作为品质与奢华的代名词,由Rose Fulbright品牌内衣已成为英国女性衣橱中的必备单品,同时此品牌也正在慢慢征服中国的广大女性。毕业于帕森斯设计学院和伦敦时装学院之后,当过艺术家、人类学家和建筑师的Fulbright,在从事了一系列的与创意相关的事业之后决定建立自己的品牌,通过对设计细节和产品概念的把握,她终于成立了Rose Fulbright同名内衣品牌。

Although not technically a heritage brand, Fulbright’s use of fine silks and cottons are emblematic of talent passed down from previous generations. Many of her designs are hand-painted and replicate paintings completed by her grandmother Susan Williams-Ellis — founder of Portmeirion Pottery and renowned artist. With her own label done, dusted and launched in London back in 2013, Fulbright found herself en route to the Middle Kingdom a mere six months later. And so our story launches itself from sketch book into actual design with a zigzag stitch.

虽然不是一个传统品牌,Fulbright所采用的上等丝绸和棉象征着对传统技艺的传承。她的很多设计作品都是由她的祖母Susan Williams-Ellis手工绘制并复制的,Susan Williams-Ellis是一位著名艺术家同时也是Portmeirion Pottery的创始人。2013年Fulbright在伦敦发布了自己品牌的六个月之后便踏上了前往中国的征程。故事的发展就好像是从草图到实际的设计过程,经常是曲折反复的。

Yet as always, in order to comprehend the current state of affairs, we must first dive and delve into China’s history with lingerie.

一如既往,为了看清当前的发展动态,我们必须要进一步探究中国内衣发展史。

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Tropical Loungewear. Copyright@Rose Fulbright

How Did The Han Do It?

汉朝人是如何做内衣的?

Lingerie of the Han Dynasty (221-206 BC) was much more conservative, designed almost like a backless tunic. However, years later during the Tang Dynasty (618-907), one of China’s most romantic and cosmopolitanly brilliant periods of all time, undergarments were designed to be translucent, fully exposing a woman’s body and at the same time aptly reflecting the dynamic shift and change in China’s economy and culture. For many years to come, lingerie remained a symbol of sex and confidence. The most commonly seen style of Chinese lingerie is from the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) known as the dudou, a backless diamond-shaped halter neck top, made from silk and embroidered by a bride-to-be in preparation for her wedding night.

汉朝时(公元前221-206年)的内衣设计是非常保守的,内衣看上去就好像是露背的短上衣。在汉朝之后出现的唐朝(618-907年),这个中国历史上最浪漫的辉煌时期,其内衣设计很大胆地暴露了女性的身体,这与当时中国社会的转变和经济文化的发展是相互呼应的。在这之后的许多年,内衣仍是女性自信和性的象征。在清代(1644-1912年)出现了人们熟知的肚兜——一块棱形的丝绸,上部用布带系在女性脖颈上。肚兜上面的绣花图案是新娘子为自己的新婚之夜精心缝制上去的。

Amid much mid-century turmoil, China’s Cultural Revolution (1966-1976) created a subdued, more conservative societal structure and the remnants of that lifestyle remain very much alive with the nation’s aging population of today. Nevertheless, the younger modern-day woman is interested in bringing back the “original lingerie intention” and readmitting this into their culture — albeit under the Western gaze of sexuality this time around. As Fulbright points out, “lingerie was a means for decorating the female body, as opposed to a tool for shaping the body, as was the case in the West historically. There don’t seem to have been any fashions for corsets or bustles, perhaps until the 1940s when fashions became much more Westernized, leading to a market for stay-ups and garter belts.”

二十世纪中期的文化大革命(1966-1976)给中国社会带来了一种压抑的社会氛围和保守的社会结构,如今很多老年人仍然受着这种禁锢思想的影响。在西方性解放的影响下,年轻一代的中国现代女性试图找回内衣的“意义”并将其重新带回到文化当中。就像Fulbright所说的:“内衣应该是女性身体的装饰,而不是来约束女性身体的。中国历史上没有像西方的紧身胸衣那样束缚女性身体的内衣。然而直到1940年中国时尚开始更加西化以后,长筒丝袜、吊袜带等性感内衣元素才慢慢开始被中国女性所接受。”

Despite the country’s conservative undertones and reputation, beneath it all the women of China have ignited a not-so-silent rebellion with their love for luxury lingerie. Although frowned upon if exploited in public, lingerie has helped to maintain feminism and fashion through the thick and thin of China’s historical happenings.

尽管生活在一个相对保守的社会里,也无法掩盖中国女性对奢华内衣的喜爱。虽然有些不好意思说出口,在中国历史的长河中,女性内衣在维护女性权益和展现女性时尚魅力方面的作用是不可低估的。

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Eden Collection. Copyright@Rose Fulbright

Despite a highly-sexualized erosion of traditional conservatism, China’s market for high-end lingerie has strengthened, not dissipated.虽然有些有悖中国的保守传统,中国市场对高端性感内衣的需求仍是有增无减的。

Hooking Up Past And Present

连接过去和现在

Lingerie, for the modern Chinese woman in particular, has become an especially important facet of consumption and status. In line with current President Xi Jinping’s 2010s very PC (at times ironic) crackdown on ostentatious displays of wealth and decadence tout court, lingerie is the perfect way to embody luxury without showing it off to the entire world. It’s something done for your own satisfaction. Something you can slip into with a slight smile and a nod to your own confidence and sexuality.

内衣,尤其是对于现代中国女性来说,已成为购物的一个重要组成部分。在2010年后随着习近平主席打击奢靡,加大反腐力度以来,内衣自然而然地成为了隐藏在朴素外表下的奢华物件。内衣会给穿着它的女人带来一种自信和自我满足感。

The final layer between one’s body and the outside world, lingerie is the most intimate item of clothing a woman or man can buy. Unfortunately, parallel to many Western societies, the industry of modern promiscuity in China has undoubtedly been hyper-sexualized, with many men and women evaluating their “sex appeal” as a determinant for self-identity. Despite this erosion of traditional conservatism, the market for high-end lingerie has strengthened not dissipated.

在人的身体与外界之间隔的是一层衣服,而在这中间内衣是与身体最贴近的。对比西方社会,毫无疑问性在现代中国社会是备受关注的,很多男性和女性会以“性感度”来标榜自己。虽然有些有悖中国的保守传统,中国市场对高端性感内衣的需求仍是有增无减的。

Although Shanghai has always been considered the Paris of the East, the creative juices in Beijing are often swept under the rug. As another epicenter for artistic talent, the city’s community accepted Fulbright with open arms. She was even up for the accolade of “Best Fashion Designer in Beijing” handed out by City Weekend Magazine. Her pieces are timeless and carry the elegance of a bygone era; they are treasured, not trendy. Every one of the silhouettes hugs the body with the intention to celebrate the curves and waves of femininity. Her use of silk, then, in turn proves an asset to the brand given the Middle Kingdom’s extensive history of silk production.

上海一直被认为是东方的巴黎,可是在北京兴起地设计创意却时常被忽略。作为创作艺术的另一个中心,北京向Fulbright敞开了双臂。Fulbright被授予“北京最佳服装设计师”的称号,并被刊登在城市周末杂志(City Weekend Magazine)上。她的设计作品经久不衰,承载着过去时代的优雅,珍贵精美但不追逐潮流。每一件作品是对女性曲线美的赞颂,对女性身体的呵护。另外,丝绸生产在中国有着悠久的历史,Fulbright通过对丝绸的运用来赋予其品牌独特的意义。

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Classic Lingerie. Copyright@Rose Fulbright
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Burj Al Arab Collection. Copyright@Rose Fulbright

Wearing lingerie is yet another way of expressing oneself and autonomously taking control of one’s identity and role.内衣的穿着是中国女性表现自己的另一种方式,也是她们对自己身份和角色的掌控。

Hooking Up Britain And Beijing

连线中英

Motivated by her compelling urge to fill a gap in the lingerie market for the “cool, sophisticated woman” —  where lingerie is both feminine and seductive — she launched the Classic Lingerie collection based on a 1930s lingerie silhouette. It satisfies the complexities women deal with when subsequently trying to balance girly femininity and superwoman seduction. She went on to design many other collections in addition to collaborating with both the Burj Al Arab Hotel in Dubai and launching her first menswear collection with the British car brand Morgan Motors.

既展现女人魅力同时又富有诱惑力,为了填补市场上给“高冷、精致女人”打造内衣的空白,Rose Fulbright以1930年代女性内衣的轮廓为基础,发布了她的经典内衣系列。这个系列巧妙地回应了女性试图在娇弱和性感之间找到平衡点的复杂心理。除了她自己的设计系列,Rose Fulbright同时还与迪拜的卓美亚帆船酒店(Burj Al Arab Hotel)合作,并通过与英国摩根汽车公司(Morgan Motors)的合作推出了第一个男性内衣系列。

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Morgan Menswear Collection. Copyright@Rose Fulbright

Having relocated to Beijing just six months after the brand launched in London, Rose dove head first into a market she never before explored. Nonetheless, discovering China as an option provided surprising results. She quickly realized that the Chinese woman proves to be quite the risk-taker herself. Despite a lust for British labels, the brand speaks to the growing refined styling of Chinese women. Unbeknownst to many, lingerie is anything but a new concept in China. Just like their Western counterparts, the women of China have been wearing lingerie since well before the Han Dynasty (221-206 BC) to make themselves feel self-confident, sexy and, as much as this may go against feminist inclinations here and there, to please the eye of our SOs. Who knew.

品牌在英国发布的六个月后,Rose便来到了北京,探索这个尚未开拓的市场。中国市场给Rose带来了惊喜,她很快发现中国的女性很敢于尝试新事物。尽管是英国出身的品牌,这个品牌恰好回应了中国女性对精致造型的追求。可能对很多中国女性来说,内衣还是一个很新的概念。但其实跟西方比起来,中国女性早在汉代(公元前221-206年)就开始穿着内衣了,内衣不仅给女性带来了自信和性感,同时也给她们的伴侣带来了感官的愉悦(这样说虽然有些有悖女权主义的精神)。

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Burj Al Arab Satin Dress. Copyright@Rose Fulbright

Guilty as many, including myself, are of categorizing China as a perceivably oppressive society, one may be pleasantly surprised to find that Chinese women have long enjoyed a freedom uncommonly found in other countries and — dare we go there — in the United States.With the above-mentioned popular quotation of “holding up half of the sky,” women felt empowered and liberated by this type of support in many ways and were active participants of the community. Wearing lingerie was, and is, just another way of expressing oneself and autonomously taking control of one’s identity and role. However, in China’s most recent history, given their soaring-sky-high educational status and their trailblazing entrance into the highest regions of China biz life, women have evolved significantly over a short period of time. As have their perceptions of how lingerie should look and be worn: Intentional and cultural.

很多人包括我自己都认为中国是一个看上去比较压抑的社会,然而你或许会惊奇地发现中国女性其实一直有着她们的自由,只是这种自由跟其他国家的女性自由略有不同。那句经常被引用的名言“女性顶着半边天”,在许多方面解放并鼓舞了中国女性,使她们成为社区活动的积极参与者。内衣的穿着是中国女性表现自己的另一种方式,也是她们对自己身份和角色的掌控。近年来,在中国教育和商业快速发展的影响下,女性的想法也发生了转变,例如对内衣的看法,她们认为内衣应该是国际化的,同时内衣也要反映自己国家的文化。

 

The Rose Fulbright brand stands for longevity, luxury, quality and versatility; something for all to try on and stand behind. With the sky being the limit, the label will soon incorporate a lifestyle component, offering up accessories for everyday life such as kimono robes, silk scarves, wash bags, beach bags and interior products. The printed designs lend themselves to products that can cross between fashion, home and travel. And so, the Fulbright storyline continues.

Rose Fulbright品牌代表着经典、奢华、品质、多样。在制造内衣的同时,该品牌还将继续拓展其生活周边产品,像和服长衫、丝巾、洗衣袋、沙滩袋、家具用品等。品牌独特的印花设计也被用在时尚、家具、旅行等不同产品中。如此,Rose Fulbright仍在继续着她的品牌故事。

 

 

 

 

Written by Temper Magazine Contributor Jessica Laiter. Temper’s newest addition Laiter has her own website Chinese Graffiti , providing the world with an exciting and dynamic way to learn more about Chinese history and culture via a fashion platform. (Insta-follow: @ChineseGraffiti)
Edited by Temper Magazine Editor-In-Chief  Elsbeth van Paridon.
Chinese Translations by Li “Lily” Dan of utterly fabu China bag brand Kitayama Studio.
Featured Image: Eden Collection by Rose Fulbright.
Follow Fulbright on Instagram: @rosefulbright.