Xander Zhou And The Secret To Creating A New Culture.创造新文化的秘密

Chinese by birth, Dutch by marriage, Xander Zhou has been carrying a secret weapon for styled-up and -down sultriness for more than one decade now. New York’s very own self-proclaimed fashionally inclined cultural ambassador Jessica Laiter takes us on a spin through Zhou’s Fashion Nation.

出生在中国的荷兰华裔设计师Xander Zhou,在十多年来的设计生涯里他紧握着自己的秘密武器。纽约文化大使Jessica Laiter将带我们走进Xander Zhou的时尚世界。

“A COLLECTION HAS A CERTAIN RHYTHM TO IT, AN INTERNAL LOGIC, AND THE PIECES CAN BE MUCH BETTER UNDERSTOOD AND APPRECIATED WITHIN A COLLECTION THAN OUTSIDE OF IT. CONTEXT IS EVERYTHING. 一个系列有着自己的旋律,一个内在的逻辑,任何一件作品只有放到整个系列中才能被更好的理解和鉴赏。背景故事就是一切.” Xander Zhou.

Most people who aren’t obsessively scanning fashion blogs and Instagram accounts on a daily basis, are often confused by that sick infatuation many of us share for fashion and design. The catwalk can look like a mishmash of twisted, slashed, frazzled materials, in bright and dull, metallic and mat hues. It’s assumed to be a large splash of randomness.

不会每天查看网络时尚博客和Instagram的人,经常会觉得那些痴迷于分享时尚动态和设计潮流的人的行为难以理解。T型台上的有些扭曲、撕裂、破损的布料以鲜亮或暗淡、金属或无光的色调堆砌在一起,真的就好像是随性的泛滥。

Collection-Telling

系列讲述

Just as is the case in most things in life, one collection, from an objective point of view,  can be confusing. From the subjective viewpoint, however, it can make sense. Much sense. Collections themselves are often inspired by artifacts and people from around world, creating crazy and overwhelming scenes of valuable insights into other cultures. They are the over-exaggerated extensions of a designer’s cultural interpretation. Taking it one step further, those exaggerated ideas are exactly those basics one must explore in order to truly understand and appreciate a designer’s innovative undertakings.

就像我们生命中的许多事,一个系列,从客观的角度看,有时可能会让人迷惑不解。然而从主观的角度看,似乎一切就容易理解了。创作系列的灵感经常来源于世界各地的艺术品和人,通过制造疯狂夸张的场景来洞悉反映异国文化的内涵。这些过度夸张的想法是设计师对文化的解读。进一步说,这些夸张的想法本身正是帮助我们真正理解和欣赏设计师创新设计的基本。

Innovation is a very personal thing and although Xander Zhou respects tradition for its number of highly respected templates, like any designer, he does add a little bit of Xander and little bit of Zhou into the designing mix.

创新是非常个人的,虽然Xander Zhou尊重传统文化,但跟其他设计师一样,他会把自己一些个性的东西添加混合到设计当中。

Originally from Jilin, in northeastern China, Zhou studied fashion in the Netherlands, but returned home for the opportunity to launch his eponymous label. The wonderful thing about China is that many of its designers are starting from a blank canvas, a fruitful foundation for the creation and expansion of China’s fashion industry. Creativity has all the space it could possibly desire in order to flourish. Zhou’s designs lean neither to the East or the West. He supremely focuses on detail, quality and originality. Ridding the world of that “Made in China” stereotype comes in a close second.

出身于中国东北的吉林,Zhou在荷兰学习了服装设计后返回故土并推出了自己的同名品牌。对于很多设计师来说中国出身是一件很美妙的事,就好像是从一幅一切皆有可能的空白画布开始,设计师绘制、创造、并延续着中国的时尚产业。创造力提供无限可能和空间,时尚产业的蓬勃发展需要创造力。Zhou的设计风格既不偏向东方也不偏向西方。他极其注重细节、质量、和原创性,并想以此来颠覆“中国制造”的传统印象。

Cultural-Stereotyping

文化印象

An example. The protagonist of  Zhou’s A/W 2015 collection was the All American Clint Eastwood Cowboy. The foreign perspective of this guy comes down to one macho macho, semi-barbarian, man who in his lifetime has had to jump  two hurtles: The conflict that arose as civilization pushed nature aside and the growing desire to live and embrace a life independent of social constraint. The man is often seen as an explorer with “noble” motives, grinding and pushing his way through many an obstacle as to gain the freedom he deserved.

举个例子,Zhou的2015年秋冬系列的主题是围绕美国牛仔克林特·伊斯特伍德(Clint Eastwood)展开的。在外国人的眼里,他是一个阳刚的、半野蛮的人,他的一生中必须跨越两道难坎儿:文明与自然之间的冲突,以及他对独立并无拘束生活的渴望。这个人经常被认为是一位具有“高尚”动机的冒险家,为获自由他克服诸多阻碍不断前行。

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Xander Zhou Design. Photography摄影: Jack Clark for Petrie Inventory.

Zhou’s personal outward-bound experience from China found these characteristics in that All American Cowboy to be both appealing as well as self-reflective. A collection was born. I myself admittedly have a penchant for the China-based stories, but the American dream ain’t so bad either — insert wink. On my quest to get acquainted with Zhou, primarily through ye good ole Internet, a series of quotes stood in as an introduction. A handful of examples:

美国牛仔吸引Zhou的地方是他身上所体现的个性,这也跟Zhou个人在国外的经验产生了共鸣。于是一个系列就这样诞生了。Zhou承认自己很喜欢基于中国的故事,但其实美国梦也不差。在我的要求下以网上交谈的方式,我结识了Zhou,以下引用他的几句话正好可以作为对Zhou的介绍:

“I enjoy the occasional pajama-clad weekend.” (Amusing, one must admit.)

“我喜欢偶尔穿着睡衣过周末。”(你得承认他很风趣)

“I think it is wrong to suppose that anything coming from China should per definition be distinctly Chinese.” (The “the grass is greener on the other side” type deal, one might say.)

“我认为从中国出来的东西都必须带有明显的中国定义这种想法是错的。”(“邻家芳草绿,隔岸风景好”也是相似的道理)

“Actually, I don’t like trends very much, they affect one’s ability to judge.” (As my roommate would say, “Pinterest stifles the creativity.”)

“实际上,我并不喜欢赶时髦,流行趋势会影响一个人的判断力。”(就像我的室友常说的,“Pinterest扼杀创造力。”)

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Xander Zhou Design. Photography摄影: Jack Clark for Petrie Inventory.

PRESERVING TRADITIONAL CULTURE THROUGH FASHION MIGHT BE RESPECTFUL TOWARDS TRADITION, BUT IT IS NOT RESPECTFUL TOWARDS FASHION.通过时尚来沿袭传统文化可能是对传统的尊重,但是这种做法却是对时尚的轻视。

Culture-Creation

文化创造

Much of Zhou’s inspirations are based on what he absorbs from daily life: Socializing with friends, traveling the globe and going about the gains, remains and sizzling fashion campaigns of the day. There haven’t been many directly apparent Chinese cultural influences to be spotted in his creations, thus far, though Zhou certainly does admire as well as respect the designs of his Chinese contemporaries like Masha Ma, Du Yang and Qiu Hao.

Zhou的很多创作灵感基于每日的生活点滴:与朋友交往,外出旅行,以及查看时尚动态。到目前为止,在他的创作中并没有出现很多明显的中国文化的影响,但Zhou对于同代的中国本土设计师像玛莎(Masha Ma),杜旸(Du Yang),邱昊(Qiu Hao)是还是十分尊崇的。

In the creation of his own fashion nation, Zhou in August of 2009 debuted as guest editor of China’s notable “iLook Magazine” and was placed on the cover as the featured symbol for it’s Coming Out theme. The issue appeared on stands exactly one year after China had hosted the 2008 Olympic Games, symbolizing China’s coming out to the world. The idea for Zhou in posing was to highlight and celebrate both new designer talent as well as the gay community.

在他自己的时尚创作世界里,2009年8月中国知名的“iLook Magazine”邀请Zhou作为客座编辑,并将他的照片登载在以出柜(Coming Out)为主题的一期杂志的封面上。作为中国走向世界的象征,这期杂志正好在2008北京奥运会的整一年后出版。选择Zhou作为这期的封面人物的目的是庆祝中国新生代设计师的诞生,同时给予同性恋者群体一些关注。

 

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Xander Zhou Design. Photography摄影: Jack Clark for Petrie Inventory.

The Zhou label sports the slogan “Made On Another Planet” as a replacement for the very common”Made in _____” label, based on the belief that when consumers cast their eye upon the “Made in China” tag, they will automatically side-eye the mass-production assumptions. Which, let’s face it, is true; we do still feel that way. This is the very reason why these designers are crucial to the evolution of globalization. They are crucial to the creation of the new “Made in China” culture.

Zhou用印着“在另一个星球上制造”(Made On Another Planet)标语的标签来替代常见的“___制造”的标签。当消费者看到“中国制造”的标签时,他们立刻联想到的就是大规模量产。的确如此,这种联想如今仍然存在。正因如此这些新锐设计师对全球化发展的起着决定性的作用,他们是开启新“中国制造”文化的关键。

If you feel like creating a little Zhou culture inside you wardrobe, go right here to spot more of Zhou’s latest collections. “Made in China” got itself a brand new tag.

如果你对Zhou设计的服饰感兴趣,点击此处查看Zhou的最新设计系列。中国制造从此有了一个全新标签。

Originally written by Jessica Laiter for her website Chinese Graffiti (read on to find out more!).本文出自 JESSICA LAITER的个人网站CHINESE GRAFFITI(点击继续阅读)
Additional editing by Elsbeth van Paridon.补充编辑:ELSBETH VAN PARIDON

CHINESE TRANSLATION BY LI “LILY” DAN OF KITAYAMA STUDIO (李丹)

Featured Image: Photographer Yuan, Copyright @ Trunk Studio.图片:PHOTOGRAPHER YUAN,版权 @ TRUNK STUDIO
A few additional words about Laiter and her fashion-promo website Chinese Graffiti:
CHINESE GRAFFITI was launched in order to provide the world with an exciting and dynamic way to learn about Chinese history and culture via a fashion platform, and of course to promote emerging Chinese designers.
Learning about China was a passion of Jessica’s since childhood, and has only grown stronger with the years. Always knowing she wanted to play a part in cross cultural communication, she first tackled the “easy” task of learning Mandarin, going on to graduate from The University of Pittsburgh with a dual degree in Chinese Studies and Communications Rhetoric. In the past 10 years, she attended intensive summer language programs,  studied, worked and traveled across China, and is currently pursuing a Masters Degree in Translation at New York University.
Jessica has worked in the footwear, branding, and consulting industries, helping to bridge communication, business, and cultural gaps for major clients from both East and West.
Living in New York City means having the world at your fingertips.  Unique life experiences have guided Jessica into rare opportunities where she has met fashion, business, and cultural leaders from cities across the globe, many of which share a passion for multiculturalism and unbounded support for emerging talent. The hope is to share with you this passion and to pass on why China is not just a country of 1.4 billion people, and should be recognized for more than its economic success. It is a place of tradition, culture, fashion, art and design. And its story deserves to be told.